INSIGHTS: Is Schiaparelli the boldest luxury Maison ever?

Bella Hadid wearing Schiaparelli golden lungs necklace at the 2021 Cannes Festival. Image: Schiaparelli.

In luxury, differentiation is everything. Where most Maisons play safe, Schiaparelli leverages risk and shock value as brand codes.

Elsa Schiaparelli defined her brand not by design alone, but shock value. Unlike her biggest designer rival Coco Chanel at the time, Schiaparelli founded the Maison in 1927 on daring creative choices, a love for surrealism and an undeniable technical genius. Her association with the Art world and surrealists was very present. Salvatore Dali collaborated on the design of the famous-infamous lobster dress, Jean Cocteau decorated the back of Schiaparelli coats, and many more.

A distinctive style and creative boldness that set the Maison apart from its inception. The designer focused on the bust area while everyone else was obsessed by the waistline. She pioneered the high-shoulder look and over-sized jewellery.

Fast-forward: Schiaparelli is still rewriting the rulebook today and provoking conversations on and outside of the runway. Schiaparelli does not compete on wearability of its creations and collections but on memorability. Every show becomes a conversation and echoes far beyond the luxury and fashion industries. This is the Maison's most valuable currency.

Did you know?

Elsa Schiaparelli closed down the business in the 1950s, which once was the Fashion leader in the Parisian scene. Christian Dior's New Look became everyone's obsession and overshadowed the artistic and decadent flair of the Italian designer.

The fashion world had to wait until 2014 for the Maison to come back with its first Couture runway show in 60 years.

Schiaparelli's current Creative Director, Daniel Roseberry, continues to carry this incredible legacy and push the boundaries of boldness. His unique designs contribute to a new aesthetic vocabulary with the frequent use of gold jewellery, moulded leather and of course body parts. He was honoured the price of International Designer of the year in 2024 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America Fashion Awards, recognising his transformative work for the Maison.

A reminder that in today’s market, singularity is as valuable as heritage. There are highly audacious luxury Maisons out there, yet it takes a special legacy to compete with Schiaparelli's boldness.

Image: Daniel Roseberry.

Image: Ariana Grande for the Hollywood Reporter.